From Kolhapur to Milan: Why Cultural Rights Matter

A pair of leather sandals from India made its way to a big fashion event in Milan this June and set off a debate the world couldn’t ignore. Italian fashion house Prada unveiled a design that bore a striking resemblance to India’s famous Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted leather sandal with centuries of cultural significance. For the artisans of Kolhapur, who have passed down this skill through generations, it felt like their story was borrowed without permission. India quickly called out the oversight. Officials, designers, and artisans didn’t just ask for credit, they asked for respect and fairness . This moment isn’t only about a shoe. It’s about what happens when Traditional Knowledge (TK) and Traditional Cultural Expressions (TCK) are used by global brands without recognizing the communities that created them.

The Heart of the Issue: More Than a Design

The Kolhapuri chappal isn’t just footwear. It’s an example of TK, a mix of craft techniques, cultural identity, and local knowledge. The name has been protected with a Geographical Indication (GI), confirming its special link to Kolhapur. According to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture (MACCIA), close to 100,000 artisans throughout India are involved in this craft, supporting an industry valued at more than $200 million. For these communities, this craft is more than business; it is a cultural heritage .The sandals are made using traditional methods involving hand-cut leather, natural dyes, and intricate braiding and stitching techniques, all passed down through generations. This artisanal process ensures durability and unique character that mass production cannot replicate.

While legal tools like GI provide important recognition, they alone cannot fully protect these traditions. True safeguarding requires empowering artisans with knowledge and resources, enforcing rights, and building ethical partnerships with brands.

2. Prada’s Response: A Chance to Do Better

Prada didn’t deny the similarity. They acknowledged the Indian influence and said they were open to conversations with local stakeholders. This could become an example of how a brand can turn controversy into real collaboration. If Prada works with Kolhapuri artisans, offering fair agreements, visibility, and shared value, it could inspire other companies to follow.

3. Why Protecting TK and TCK Matters

When traditional designs are copied without consent, entire communities lose. They lose income and control over their heritage. Their culture risks being watered down or misrepresented. Their identity can be reduced to a marketing tool. Strong protection for TK and TCK helps prevent this. It ensures that when heritage inspires new creations, the original keepers of that knowledge have a say, and a share in the benefits. That’s why the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) has spent years developing policies and tools to protect TK and TCK. In May 2024, WIPO member states adopted the first-ever Treaty addressing the connection between intellectual property, genetic resources, and traditional knowledge. This groundbreaking treaty is also the first to include specific provisions protecting the rights of Indigenous Peoples and local communities. WIPO’s work helps countries establish systems where cultural knowledge is respected and communities can assert their rights.

Traditional Knowledge and Cultural Expressions often don’t fit directly into conventional IP laws, so specialized policies and community-driven benefit-sharing agreements are crucial to maintain cultural integrity and ensure sustainable economic development.

4. The Bigger Picture: The Right Way to Create:

Social media has amplified the voice of the Kolhapuri artisans and Indian citizens. Hashtags like #KolhapuriChappal and #RespectOurCraft trended across Twitter and Instagram, gathering thousands of posts from people worldwide demanding respect for indigenous artisans and fair collaboration. This isn’t about stopping inspiration. Culture naturally crosses borders and sparks new ideas. But inspiration should come with recognition, transparency, and fairness . Imagine if more brands reached out to traditional communities before launching products. Imagine if artisans were invited to collaborate, rather than watching their work rebranded without their knowledge. That’s how we can build a fashion industry and a global economy, rooted in integrity.

Enforcement remains a key challenge, as many communities lack the resources to protect their heritage. Strengthening global cooperation, raising awareness, and involving indigenous voices in product development can lead to more respectful and equitable creative industries.

What You Can Do

• If you’re a designer, look deeper into the origins of your inspiration. Credit and collaborate.

• If you’re a business, create agreements that share profits fairly with cultural communities.

• If you’re a consumer, ask brands how they respect the heritage behind their products.

• If you’re an artisan, know that your work carries value no luxury label can invent.

• If you’re a policymaker, support laws and systems that protect tradition and culture and ensure communities benefit fairly.